Grapevine Canyon
A Sacred Site to Native Peoples Offers
Visitors a Unique Window Into The Past
“Mastamho went northward,
carrying the people on his arms; on to Avikwame, the sacred mountain of the
Mohave. There he built a house for himself and the people.”
-Mohave Creation Myth
Long
ago, the ancient inhabitants of the Mohave Desert were drawn to Grapevine
Canyon by a water source in an arid landscape, hunting opportunities, and as a
place of cultural and spiritual significance. Today, the canyon draws visitors
from all over the region for much different reasons. The hundreds of
petroglyphs carved into the rock by ancient peoples along with the natural
beauty this desert oasis allow day-trippers the opportunity to step into past
for a moment with minimal effort. Make the short drive up the hill from
Laughlin to see Grapevine Canyon. You won’t be disappointed.
We
visited in early March. I highly recommend avoiding the brutal summer months
where temperatures can reach over 120 degrees. Another reason why a spring
visit is recommended is that the spring that runs through the wash is usually
running much to the pleasure of thirsty wildlife and vegetation.
The
parking lot was full of out-of-state plates from Arizona, California and even
from as far away as Washington State attesting to its wide-spread popularity. We
followed the sandy path up the wash. The trail is surprisingly easy in such a
forbidding landscape. Children and elderly will have no problem accessing most
of the panels located at the mouth of the canyon.
Winding through bitter brush, Joshua trees and
yucca plants we come to the first set of boulders after about a quarter mile.
Scanning the rock closely we see the first petroglyph. "It looks like an
H" a fellow hiker pointed out. While archeologists contend that exact
dating of the carvings is difficult to ascertain, there is a general consensus
that they were created between 150 and 800 years ago. They are made by pecking
away at the patina on the surface exposing the lighter rock underneath. Some
are readily identifiable. The sun and bighorn sheep panel is a good example.
Hunting scenes may have been constructed to enlist spiritual help when looking
for game. Others are significantly more abstract like the zigzag lines, spirals
or grid patterns. It is theorized that these carvings conveyed important
information as to tribal boundaries or were used in ceremonial rites.
The dark rock formations flank the
canyon entrance on both sides. There is a certain sacredness you feel when
drawing near. This land is holy and far removed from the modern towers, neon
and casino bustle below in Laughlin. A pinyon jay pecks at the small fruit
clusters growing on the native grapevines from where the canyon derived its
name. Spirit Mountain, or "Avikwame” lords above the desert landscape.
This is the place from where the Yuman-speaking tribes believe that they
originated and where ancestral spirits reside. The petroglyphs carved long ago
into the rock tell part of that story.
There are hundreds of petroglyphs spread
among the rocks throughout the canyon. It’s enjoyable just locating them. Any
of the rocks might contain an ancient carving. I would start with the
formations that have been made dark by thousands of years of geological
processes known as “desert varnish” or “desert patina.” The contrast between
the dark surface and the lighter matrix underneath really make the petroglyphs
stand out. You find yourself trying to interpret and discern their meanings and
imagining yourself as an ancient sojourner drawn to this canyon by the
life-giving waters.
We
took our lunch near the sheep panel under the cleft of a large overhang. I
imagined an ancient hunter waiting for hours on end in this perfect ambush spot
for the animals to descend into the canyon for the live-giving water below. Was
it boredom that caused them to carve, or was it a message to others that this
was a good spot to hunt? We may never know. This is part of the fun to be had
by viewing them.
The canyon is lush in comparison to the
surrounding hillsides. High above, Moss Spring creates an oasis for wildlife
and plants during the wet years. Many species like Cottonwood, rushes, canyon
grape and cattails take advantage of the waters, and in turn, attract many
desert animals. Bighorn Sheep, coyotes, desert tortoises and red-tailed hawks
among others call the area home so keep your camera at the ready; you might be
rewarded with a glimpse.
It is important to follow some basic
guidelines when visiting such a significant cultural resource like Grapevine Canyon.
Help protect the carvings by not touching them. The oils from your skin are
known to be corrosive. Also, resist climbing on or around the rocks as many are
loose and become dislodged damaging adjacent panels. Towards preservation of
the artwork, and your own safety, I recommend bringing a pair of binoculars to
view the carvings that are located high above the canyon floor.
The
Newberry Mountains, especially Spirit Mountain (Avikwame) is sacred to the all
Yuman-speaking tribes and should be afforded appropriate respect. It is at the
center of their creation stories and is listed on the National Register of
Historic Places as a Traditional Cultural Property. Enjoy the area but keep to
the popular naturalist’s ethos of “taking only pictures and leaving only
footprints.”
From
Laughlin, take HWY 163 West towards Las Vegas. Travel 6 miles and take
Christmas Tree Pass road on the right. The dirt road is well maintained so all
types of vehicles should have no problems. Travel slowly, to keep the dust down
and to help protect the road from wash boarding. After 2 miles, you’ll take a
left at the fork and see the parking lot. There are clean and modern restrooms
located at the entrance to the canyon. The trail that leads to the majority of
the petroglyphs is relatively easy, however keep in mind that some of the more
interesting depictions (like the bighorn sheep panel) are located part way up
the sides of the canyon. These are only accessible by the sure-footed willing
to navigate between large boulders and clothing-snagging desert shrubbery. You
may feel like following the spring up the canyon but I would not recommend this
as it can also be hazardous. The majority of the rock-art is found at the
canyon’s entrance anyways. Wear sturdy footwear, carry plenty of water, and be
aware of your surroundings. The desert rattlesnake calls this region home but
will usually avoid you unless cornered. The National Park Service offers
information as to desert safety on its website. I recommend reading this prior
to any desert excursion.
More
information:
Lake
Mead National Recreation Area
601
Nevada Way Boulder City, NV 89005
(702)
293-8990
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